Cuisine: Modern European
Location: Perth CBD, Central Park Tower
It’s been a long time since we had a team lunch so headed to Grand Central Park. I was wondering where this place is and after passing Shiro and walking a little further past a cafe, I noticed this restaurant which must be new as I’m sure I would have noticed this place.
Stepping in, the place is quite flash. Certainly tantalises the senses without being over the top. The cafe / bar area is on the ground level while the restaurant is upstairs. The bar area is brightly lit up by the actual bar while the overhead lighting is considerably muted with a touch of light illuminating the curved roof beams. Very stylish.
We had a booking and took a seat at our table. The benches were rather high so it was a little awkward getting into them and then pulling yourself towards the table which was at a comfortable height, unlike that at The Generous Squire which is at the perfect height for drinking! There’s quite an extensive wine list but being a non-drinker, I just skipped to the food menu which had a nice selection of items. The menu is a slight cross between the typical bar menu and a European restaurant. Slightly more cheffed up meals. One meal which certainly caught my interest was Patagonian Toothfish. I’ve heard of it but never eaten it. It’s the fish that is sought after by Asians and illegally fished in our waters. I thought I’d give that a go. Gotta try something different.
Despite going to the bar to place our orders, the food wasn’t delivered at the same time and most of our table was waiting for our meals. The waiter who brought the last meals out on a prompt of “where are our meals?” realised what had happened and apologised Apparently, the bar staff didin’t place all our orders together for the one table so when they got to the kitchen, they were prepared separately. Not a big thing, but it was nice to receive an apology and an explanation which provided a better dining experience despite the stuff up. No biggie but it was nice to see an acknowledgment of the error on the restaurant’s part and smoothes over the small grieveance. Other restaurants just gloss over this which is worse.
My poached patagonian toothfish fillet was served atop a “salad of orange segments, red onion slices, pistachio nuts, cubed watermelon and a medley of tomato finished with a citris vinaigrette”. The fish is very buttery, soft and smooth in texture, just breaking away at the touch of the fork. It is very rich and the choice of the salad is an excellent contrast. The citrus elements of the orange, acidity of the various tomato varieties and the refreshing nature of the watermelon, aid to cut through the richness. However, after eating a bit of the warm fish and then going towards the cold salad presents a bit of a shock. I was almost expecting the salad to be warmed. That aside, I really enjoyed the meal but felt it was overtaken by the quantity of salad. I think the richness of the fish makes the initially smallish looking fillet actually just the right size, but would have preferred a little less salad and instead, a smallish bowl of chips or another element of some sort, just to provide a little more substance. Fortunately, someone ordered a meal which came with chips and there were some left over so I asked if I could have them and enjoyed them. There wasn’t many but it was just enough to leave me comfortably full. Oh, and the chips were delicious.
Grand Central Park Food Review Summary
Verdict: Stepping in the venue has a very modern feel that engages the senses without being pretentious. Without trying to be too elitist, it seems like the bar is for a more polished patronage. Very smart venue, the menu has a nice selection of affordable items. I really enjoyed trying something completely different – patagonian toothfish. It’s very soft and flaky, not fishy, very well poached and buttery. However, given it’s richness it was superbly complemented by an interesting cold salad of orange segments (citrus), various tomato varieties (acidity), watermelon (freshness), pistachios (crunch & texture), Spanish onions and a vinagrette. The elements of the salad combined to cut through the richness and provide a real freshness in the hot summer weather. A very well thought out and balanced dish. I would have liked a little less salad and more of another element providing substance, like chips or something potato.
Grand Central Park Restaurant Details
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