The Trustee – 21 Mar 2014

Cuisine: Modern European
Location: Perth CBD, Brookfield Place

I was fortunate to receive an invite along with another colleague to a lunch at The Trustee, courtesy of one of our clients. This is one of the restaurants on my long list of restaurants to try so I was more than happy to see the food on offer. The Trustee is situated on St Georges Terrace as part of the Brookfield Place redevelopment, which included the reincarnation of the historic abandoned buildings that sat vacant for so long, till being transformed into a space catering for retail, bars, and restaurants. The Trustee has the bar at the ground floor level and on the basement level lies comfy booths with a more relaxed atmosphere. After looking at the menu, I settled on the following:

Entrée: Bone Marrow, Shredded Brisket, Kumera Puree, Parsley Salad $26.50

The Trustee - Bone Marrow, Shredded Brisket, Kumera Puree, Parsley Salad

The Trustee – Bone Marrow, Shredded Brisket, Kumera Puree, Parsley Salad

My entrée was served and the presentation certainly had my mouth watering. I started with the large square piece of brisket (on the left) which they’ve done well to cut a chunk, yet stop if from falling apart. I say this because as soon as you cut through the brisket, it’s extremely tender, succulent, and oh so tasty! The meat breaks away into strands and you just can’t stop eating it. The kumera puree bordering much of the dish is smooth and has a lovely flavour. What I liked is the smoothness of the sweet potato without it being too sweet. The flavour is controlled to give a hint of richness which marries well with the deep meatiness of the brisket, marrow, and meat juices that have oozed out and surround the dish. The soft slices of bread help to mop up the juices and clean the dish of all it’s flavours. I thoroughly enjoyed this fine creation. The parsley salad was different but partnered effectively with the other elements on the plate. The parsley had a slightly confronting flavour to offset from the meatiness of the dish. The bone marrow had cooked down so getting it to come out the other end of the bone was a little challenging, but the end result presented some delicious flavours. A really impressive and very filling entrée, certainly not on the petite side.


Main – Braised Venison Shank Parpadelle, Rocket, Peas, Pecorino $38

The Trustee - Braised Venison Shank Parpadelle, Rocket, Peas, Pecorino

The Trustee – Braised Venison Shank Parpadelle, Rocket, Peas, Pecorino

Next up, the plates were cleared and the mains served in quite a short time. I thought there may have been a much longer delay, especially after eating the near main size entrée, but no, the kitchen is maybe a bit too efficient. I ordered the braised venison shank parpadelle, rocket, peas, pecorino ($38), which was presented in a large plate, however, came with a large serving. The chunks of shredded venison were evident among the array of green peas and ribbons of parpadelle pasta. The venison was very tender, moist, and tasty. It has a very earthy flavour, much like the rest of the dish. The parpadelle pasta is soft and smooth and becomes filling with the venison, all those yummy peas, the juices, and the bitter rocket greens. I really like the saltiness of the pecorino, but really would have liked far more added to the dish which would have made it perfect. The salty element was required but unfortunately, not enough of it was present to round out the earthy flavours. The meat juices certainly help to moisten the dish and add flavour to the peas, but for the quantity, another element, maybe something acidic, is required to balance the earthiness of the meal which becomes intense after awhile. Nevertheless, it is a dish with bold flavours that plays effectively to a theme and is hearty. I have failed to report on a dessert offering for I was too full. Shame.


The Trustee Food Review Summary

Verdict: The Trustee offers some deliciously crafted food in a refined but relaxed atmosphere. Their dishes are hearty and generous and offer a level of uniqueness and creativity. My entree of bone marrow is something I have not ordered on a menu but was pleasantly surprised with dish served to me. It presents well, offers various elements that compliment each other, and delivered on flavour. The brisket was moist, succulent, and so delicious. It partnered effectively with the slightly rich, but not sweet smooth kumera puree and the slightly sharp flavour of the parsley salad contrasted to the meaty flavours on offer. The soft slices of bread to mop up the juices and the lovely marrow made the dish a great start to the lunch. Following the near main sized entree was a generous plate of braised venison surrounded by ribbons of parpadelle pasta. The venison was soft, tender, and full of flavour. It’s juices had seeped into the dish to moisten and add flavour to the peas and the bitter rocket. The saltiness of the Pecorina was a perfect addition to the dish but more would have strengthened the overall flavour of the dish. A very earthy dish that became a little intense towards the end of the meal and required another element, maybe acidic, to balance the strong flavours. Despite this, it was a delicious meal that contained bold flavours and delivered on taste.
Price: Moderately Expensive
Taste: Delicious
Value: Excellent
Recommendation: Recommend


The Trustee Restaurant Details
The Trustee Bar and Bistro on Urbanspoon

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The Trustee - 21 Mar 2014, reviewed by Shaun on 2014-03-21T17:43:07+00:00 rating 4.4 out of 5