Restaurant Amusé – 14 Apr 2015


Cuisine: French, Modern European
Location: East Perth

There’s a long list of restaurants to work through so I decided to start crossing one off the list and that began with a visit to Restaurant Amusé. Restaurant Amusé specialises in degustations so I booked a table and made sure I got out of the office on time and my stomach was rumbling in preparation for a near 3 hour feast ($130 pp though discounts also available via the Entertainment Book).

 

Curried Egg and Cos

Restaurant Amusé - Curried Egg and Cos

I don’t like egg and here we start with the first appetiser and it is egg. What the heck, I ate it and guess what, I still don’t like egg! The yolk is rich and the white is soft and creamy. They’ve added some other ingredients which make it nice but all I can taste is egg. Not the restaurant’s fault. I’m looking forward to the next item.

 

Linseed and Rice, Padron Pepper

Restaurant Amusé - Linseed and Rice, Padron Pepper

The flax linseed cracker had a delicious flavour and lots of crunch. I loved the stuffed Spanish Padron pepper filled with goats cheese. There’s a slight bit of bite from the chilli but this is balanced with the creaminess of the goats cheese. Why only one? What a tease. I want more.

 

Tapioca and Onion

Restaurant Amusé - Tapioca and Onion

Next was a delicious onion broth with a picked shallot and soft tapioca. It was served warm so it was nice and soothing.

 

Bread and Butter

Restaurant Amusé - Bread and Butter

In house sourdough and rye slices were served with smoked and charred butter with pink salt. The crusts are very firm and crunchy, a bit too crunchy, though I loved both bread varieties and the butter is like whipped cream being light and airy. No issue with spreading the butter here. I was offered more bread during the course of the night but declined.

 

Nashi Pear, Sunflower and Cheddar

Restaurant Amusé - Nashi Pear, Sunflower and Cheddar

Nashi pear in mustard oil, grated turnip and cheddar, a pear reduction, and sunflower seeds. This is a really interesting dish. The earthy tones of the turnip and the gooeyness of the cheese combine superbly to pair with the soft but slightly crunchy nashi pear. The Tasmanian cheddar exudes a lovely musty flavour. There’s a slight sweetness from the pear reduction which adds a lovely flavour to each bite and a slight crunch is also provided from the sunflower seeds.

 

Marron, Carrot, Buckwheat

Restaurant Amuse - Marron, Carrot, Buckwheat

Restaurant Amuse – Marron, Carrot, Buckwheat

Marron served upon a buckwheat risotto and toasted buckwheat. On top of the marron is a super smooth and creamy carrot puree. What a fantastic dish from first spoonful till the last! The dish is quite rich. There’s the soft risotto cooked with seafood stock that oozes a certain kind of creaminess. Contrasting the texture is the crunchy roasted buckwheat which is pleasant to munch on. The perfectly cooked flesh of the Manjimup marron just melts in your mouth. A rich smooth carrot puree adds a different element to the dish. While the carrot is rich it doesn’t carry the richness I was expecting. Its different, a bit akin to a mayo and mustard combination but whatever they’ve done, it’s a component as with the others that combine to produce an excellent tasting dish.

 

Beef, Apple, and Celeriac

Restaurant Amuse - Beef, Apple, and Celeriac

Cured and diced beef, shaved celeriac, egg white, capers, mayo and mustard cream. The mayo and mustard gives a very creamy flavour a bit like horseradish but there’s a touch of acidity in the curing of the soft beef which works well. However, while I liked the dish it is far too creamy which made me feel a tad sick. Far less cream would help but something about this dish is off and needs a tweak to get the balance right and achieve the potential of what the dish could offer.

 

Barramundi, Zucchini and Mussels

Restaurant Amuse - Barramundi, Zucchini and Mussels

Pickled charred zucchinis on the top, anchovy emulsion on the base. Barramundi batard which is the fillets poached in milk and thyme, mash made with heaps of butter, and a broth. Also mussels and a sweet vinaigrette. I liked the disintegrated barramundi mixed in with bread and butter mixture. The mussels are delicious though I didn’t care for the sweet vinegarette but liked the acidity. Not sure why fork and knife were provided when the contents of the dish were served in a deep bowl which was more soupy in consistency than firm solid elements.

 

Duck, Cauliflower and Kohlorabi

Restaurant Amuse - Duck, Cauliflower and Kohlorabi
Restaurant Amuse - Duck, Cauliflower and Kohlorabi

Pomegranate and beetroot jus, smoked cauliflower puree, confit duck leg and breast, kohlrabi pickled in beetroot juice. Balance has been restored with another superb dish. The duck is nothing short of fantastic, cooked perfectly and seasoned to perfection. The duck flavour and smoked cauliflower puree make an excellent combination, a tad rich and creamy, but balanced by the acidity of the pomegranate seeds and the slight bitterness of the kohlrabi. This is the first time I’ve eaten kohlrabi which was shaved into silky smooth ribbons resembling a fine pasta. It tastes just like cabbage but had a slight peppery bitterness which seems a little confronting at first (it was the first thing I ate) but pairs effectively when eaten with the other elements on the plate.

A break of 10 or so minutes is provided to let the food rest before the switch from savoury to sweet is made. Service has been very professional though I feel for the waitstaff in having to recite a tome for the description of the dishes. Most were so long I had no chance of remembering much of it!

 

Pre Dessert: Caraway, Passionfruit, and Coconut

Restaurant Amuse - Caraway, Passionfruit, and Coconut

A crunchy firm caraway cracker with coconut and passionfruit coulis-like piped blobs were presented as my pre-dessert. They’ve made the coulis and the cracker pair very well as the cracker is a bit heavy and grainy but this requires a touch of sweetness but it’s offset by the grainyness of the cracker. Interesting. Different. Tasty.

 

Quince, Prune and Chestnut

Restaurant Amuse - Quince, Prune and Chestnut
Restaurant Amuse - Quince, Prune and Chestnut

Dehydrated chocolate mousse, poached quince, quenelle chocolate and prune ice cream, quince and chocolate ganache, and chestnut puree. The chestnut puree is an unusual element in a dessert but is required to offset the sweetness of the quince. The quince adds a lovely flavour but it’s a tad too strong on the sweet side. The quince and chocolate ganache produce a similar flavour tempered a little by the chocolate. The chocolate and prune ice cream is delicious and I really loved the dehydrated chocolate mousse wafer which is so delicious. The first round is like eating a light chocolate biscuit. The second round was a little chewy and gooey sticking to the inside of your teeth. I’m not a big fan of chocolate and citrus but they’ve done a great job in creating a tasty dessert.

 

Petit Fours: Mint, Pepperberry, Lychee and Bergamot

Restaurant Amuse - Mint, Pepperberry, Lychee and Bergamot

Now for petit fours, as if I’m still hungry! They brought a mint and pepperberry tea with lychee sweet and bergamot jubes. I like the tea which is really soothing and refreshing. It’s the perfect finish to the meal.

 

Restaurant Amusé Food Review Summary

Verdict: A degustation at Restaurant Amuse will place you in an environment perfect for any special occasion accompanied by professional service, quality food, perfect execution, and delicious taste. I felt the balance of some dishes were out of whack, an example being the beef dish which was far too creamy, and this coming from a person who likes creamy and rich food. The very creamy element seemed to be a common thread through several dishes which needs to be tempered and differentiated. Aside from that I liked the Spanish stuffed pepper with goats cheese, the nashi pear with grated turnip and cheddar cheese was an excellent pairing, the marron dish was excellent but the star of the night was the duck. What a fantastic dish paired with creamy cauliflower purée and bitter kohlrabi. Excellent experience. So full!
Price: Expensive (Entertainment Book has a discount)
Taste: Delicious
Value: Excellent
Recommendation: Recommend

 

Restaurant Amusé Details

http://www.restaurantamuse.com.au
Restaurant Amusé on Urbanspoon

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Restaurant Amusé - 14 Apr 2015, reviewed by Shaun on 2015-04-14T22:02:00+00:00 rating 4.3 out of 5
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