Location: Highgate – Beaufort St
Located on Beaufort St in Highgate, Russell Blaikie’s Must Winebar is a restaurant I’ve been meaning to visit but never got around to attending till now. With Eat Drink Perth on and Dimmi’s 50% Off Restaurant Week, I was surprised to see Must Winebar featured so was lucky to snag a table before the special booked out. Must Winebar are highly renowned and feature French provincial cuisine with a bistro style menu, as well as being a wine bar. The restaurant also has a bottle shop, giving customers access to Must’s incredible wine list to purchase and take home.
Upon arriving, the restaurant was absolutely packed. The venue is quite classy but still has an intimate feel despite the tables being packed in close to each other. There’s enough of a buzz in the atmosphere to still feel like you’ve got your own space and you’re not left listening to other people’s conversations. It was very busy and I’m not sure how the waitstaff don’t bump into each other, but still manage to see to everyone. The service we received throughout the night from the several waitstaff that attended to us was excellent. There was a bit of a wait getting our dessert orders taken and delivered, but they could be forgiven.
Whilst perusing the menu we were served a basket of sliced French baguette with butter which was really tasty. There’s plenty to choose from on the menu and we finally placed our orders and chatted away.
Rabbit rillettes, pickled grapes, grilled sourdough baguette $20
I love rilletes after trying them at a farmer’s market. It was the first time I’d eaten them and I really loved it. So I was interested to see what they’d be like using rabbit (I’ve eaten pork and chicken before) and it was oozing flavour. So delicious. A bit rich, the char flavour on the baguette contrasts nicely, as too the pickled grapes which are sweet and juicy, and then exude a sharp acidity.
Tiger prawn croquettes, salsa verde $21
I had a taste of the tiger prawn croquette which was crunchy on the outside and soft and yummy on the inside, just what one would expect from croquettes.
Natural Oysters with chilli lime dressing and cucumber pearls $4.50 each
Angel Hair Pasta tossed with blue manner crab, tomato, chili, basil, cream, 34°c South Organic olive oil $26
I also had a small taste of the angel hair pasta which is well coated in the sauce and very tasty.
Slow roast Moroccan spiced lamb rump chargrilled Swan Valley courgette, smoked yoghurt, romesca $39
Four juicy thick slices of slightly pink lamb rump were served. They had a lovely slight crust from the spice mix which had permeated to an extent into the flesh and added a lovely flavour. The inside of the flesh had more of a subtle fruity flavour from the spices employed. I really loved the chargrilled courgettes which were flavoursome and simply fantastic. There’s plenty of sauce to enjoy with the lamb and also a sour smoked yoghurt cream sauce which is a tad sour and detracts from the dish a touch.
Duck leg confit, raddicchoo marmalade, radish, fennel puree $38
Roast quail, pancetta, warm potato, raddicchio salad, vine dried flame grape jus $32
I had small tastes of the quail and duck which were both tender and flavoursome, particularly the duck which I envied from that small morsel.
White chocolate mousse, citrus fruits, almond crumbs, blood orange granita $16
Always room for dessert so I ordered the white chocolate mousse. The mousse was very light and creamy, more like eating whipped cream. The tangy and slightly sour grapefruit cut through the richness and creaminess. The blood orange granita refreshes the palette and makes it quite a summery dish. The dish tastes akin to a Pavlova.
Must Tiramisu homemade savoiardy, dark chocolate, strawberry $15
I also had a taste of the tiramisu which was very light and airy and very yum. The chocolate shards had a strong chocolatey taste.
Must Pavlova, mango, coconut sorbet, creme Chantilly, pineapple sauce $15
Must Winebar Food Review Summary
Verdict: I’m a real fan of French food and I can see the French influences in the cuisine. I started the night with rabbit rillettes which were soft and juicy and oozing flavour. The char of the baguette presents a lovely contrast against the richness, as too the acidic pickling juices of the grapes. For mains I ordered the slow roasted Moroccan spiced lamb rump which presented 4 juicy thick slices of slightly pinkish lamb, flavoured by slightly fruity spices which had formed a slight crust on the outside and permeated inside the flesh. Quite tasty, though I really loved the chargrilled courgettes which were simply fantastic. For dessert I ordered the white chocolate mousse which was light and airy almost like eating cream. The richness was contrasted with citrus fruits like grapefruit which while sour, partner well with the elements on the plate. Pretty good but it didn’t wow me. Sometimes one can choose dishes which are better than what others ordered. I had a small taste of the duck which left me envious and I also had a taste of the tiramisu which was excellent and had me wishing I had ordered that instead. Well crafted food that was solid rather than spectacular, in an excellent atmosphere with equally good service to boot.
Price: Moderately Expensive
Must Winebar Restaurant Details
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